Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Iguazu falls


Oh yeah, I also finally saw Iguazu falls this weekend! The waterfalls are a series of waterfalls along Rio Iguazu, that separates Brazil and Argentina. They were beautiful, mesmerizing actually. The best part is the Garganta del Diablo, or the Devil's throat, which is right along the border -- two-thirds of the falls are actually on the Argentine side.

On the other hand, perhaps I'm becoming a bit jaded by mother nature's beauty. I was expecting the falls to be more stunning, in the way that the Andes mountains seemed to hit me. But now I'm just being picky and unappreciative and a snob. So yeah, Iguazu was incredible.

Thanks, Google images.
Link

(No) photos from Paraguay (yet)

I apologize for not posting any photos from Paraguay yet. The main reason I haven't is that my internet connection is very slow here, and I can't resize my photos to make them smaller in my new camera, like I could with my old camera. That makes posting photos online very difficult. If I can figure out a way to resize them -- or get a decent internet connection -- I will.

The project is coming along quite well here, I think. I've been able to follow several individuals and a family. Here are some sketches:

Mr. Yu is the owner of Dou Jiang Dian, or Soy Milk restaurant, which advertises vegetarian food and Paraguayan food. Mr. Yu came to Paraguay twenty-six years ago, spurred on by a failed business venture in Taiwan. He apparently tried to open up a business here in Paraguay, but that failed, and for the past ten years, has run Soy Milk Restaurant. The restaurant appears quite successful.

Soy Milk Restaurant is special and therefore successful, I think, for two reasons. Firstly it is the only Chinese restaurant that specializes in breakfast food and vegetarian food. I'd contend the former is more vital for business than the latter; although there are vegetarians here, there aren't many, while everyone needs a good breakfast, especially when you have to wake up at 4 or 5 am. Soy milk restaurant has tons of Chinese breakfast pastries, congee (rice porridge, delicious), oil sticks (also delicious...), and pretty much every other traditional Chinese breakfast food. The Chinese business community here loves it.

Secondly, Soy Milk Restaurant sells Paraguayan food as well. I'd argue that the restaurant is beginning a process of gastronomic syncretism (thanks to my liberal arts degree from Wesleyan, I am allowed to make up obnoxiously complicated phrases for simple concepts), that is, it is beginning to mix Chinese and Paraguayan food. Along Avenida Avay, there are five or seven (depending on how you count a restaurant...) Chinese restaurants, and as far as I can tell, the only one that regularly attracts non-Chinese customers is Soy Milk Restaurant. They sell Paraguay soups and mains, with a little Chinese ingredients and flavors added in.
I think this may be the first step toward a greater melding of cuisines that you'd see in Peruvian-Chinese chifa cuisine or American Chinese cuisine, such as chop suey.

Mr. Yu wakes up every day at 2:30 am to begin preparing breakfast by 3:00 am. I had the sleep-deprived pleasure of accompanying him last week at 3:00 am. For some reason I doubted he'd be punctual for our date, but then I realized that this was his job, whether some American was there to photograph him or not. He prepares the soy milk, the porridge, everything, until his workers start coming at around 4:30 am.

People start calling and placing orders as early as 5 am, and business is open by 5:30. Mr. Yu's wife comes in around 6, and Mr. Yu then retires home.

Hopefully, I'll be able to post some photos of Mr Yu, and continue the sketch, since there's more!

Sunday, September 21, 2008

A few points about the Paraguayan Taiwanese

Earlier I wrote that most of the Taiwanese immigrants here came in the 1949 immigration, but that seems to be less true than I originally thought. In fact, many of the people I've talked to have said that their family has been in Taiwan for hundreds of years, part of an earlier Han-Chinese migration to the island.

One family said that many of the first Taiwanese immigrants in the 1970s left Taiwan not only because of poor economic conditions, but also because of political reasons as well. It may seem hard to believe now, but the "East Asian tigers" (Taiwan, S. Korea, Singapore, and Hong Kong) were very poor countries even in the late 1960s. I can't remember the exact ranking, but I remember in my East Asian and Latin American Development class the GDP ranking of Taiwan and South Korea was in the ballpark of countries like Congo and Sudan, which they have obviously surpassed. Suffice it to say, only thirty or forty years ago, these were poor countries. Link
Furthermore, only in the past thirty-something years has Taiwan (as well as a slew of other developing countries, such as S. Korea, Brazil, South Africa... and notably NOT mainland China) moved towards a functioning democracy. Apparently the Kuomintang, (KMT) the ruling party in Taiwan after 1949, suppressed any kind of opposing political activity for its first few decades in Taiwan. As a result, many immigrants came to South America. That same family that came to Paraguay for political reasons told me that the father went panning for gold in the Brazilian Amazon during the late 1970s and early 1980s, getting malaria a remarkable eighteen times!

One final remark about Paraguayan-Taiwanese relations: they exist (diplomatically, that is). Taiwan, or more correctly, the "Republic of China," is only recognized by 23 countries, mostly countries you haven't heard of. Surprisingly, most are in the Americas, mostly Central American countries (Nicaragua, Panama, Honduras...), and little Caribbean islands. Paraguay is the only country in South America that recognizes Taiwan.

Why so few? Well, the People's Republic of China, aka mainland Communist China, makes cutting relations with Taiwan a prerequisite for diplomatic relations. Most countries, such as the US and all of Europe (sans the Vatican City, which still recognizes Taiwan), have jumped ship and joined the PRC sometime in the 1970s or 1980s... Taiwan also lost its seat in the UN then.

So why recognize Taiwan? For small, poor countries -- which describes every country (excepting the economic powerhouse, Vatican City) with diplomatic relations with Taiwan -- Taiwan can offer lots of aid and economic opportunity. While the PRC is obviously an economic powerhouse, Taiwan is perhaps more willing to engage in "aid-diplomacy," exchanging lots of cash and economic aid in exchange for diplomatic recognition. Hospitals are built. Public facilities constructed. Money injected into the economy. Let us not forget, either, that Taiwan is not excluded from the World Trade Organization: whereas the UN can function politically without Taiwan's participation, the world economy is far more dependent on Taiwan's participation. If anything is going to keep the current status quo and keep Taiwan afloat, it's Taiwan's economy.

Okee, one final anecdote. So the Lonely Planet guidebook alleges Paraguay is the most bribe-hungry country outside of Africa. I haven't seen much police around here, and saw my first police car earlier this week -- which had decals all over it reading "donated by the Republic of China." Link

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Put your right foot in...

Took the local bus to Foz de Iguaçu today, the Brasilian city in the Tri-border area. Have I mentioned enough what a hilarious (and occasional nightmare) of a border crossing it is? This time the bus passed both customs before I had a chance to run out and get my passport stamped. On the other hand, during rush hour, it takes about an hour to cross a 100 meter bridge or so, because of traffic and Brazilian customs searching for contraband and maybe a bribe or two.

As I mentioned in a previous post, many people commute between the tax-free haven of Ciudad del Este and the pleasant city of Foz. I can see why, as Foz is much more pleasant and peaceful than Ciudad del Este; people actually live there and have social lives. Bookstores and little cafes. Ok, it's not the nicest city, but it's far more liveable than Ciudad del Este for a gringo like me.

That said, I appreciate Ciudad del Este for what it is. And when I came back I stopped by the mooncake shop and just started chatting with some local Chinese dudes, some who I know, some who I don't. After I told them I'm going to Sao Paulo later, they all sighed and rolled their eyes, saying how inaccessible and unfriendly the city is. In Ciudad del Este, they go, people are friendly, people know each other. One guy even goes, "Hey look, I don't even know you and we're still so friendly to each other!"

He's right. The people here are generally far more receptive and open to help in any way they can than in Lima. I think a large part of this is that the Chinese community is so small, that Ciudad del Este doesn't lend well toward "integrating into the local community." Unlike Lima or Sao Paulo, Ciudad del Este doesn't have any strong local cultural activities (although when I was walking home last night, I heard a band practicing in some living room. They were actually decent.). At any rate, the guy then offered to help me should I need it and gave me his phone number.

Oh, in Foz I was visiting a family I met at the Taiwanese Commercial Guild of Ciudad del Este (Taiwan Shang hui), a nice family that owns a travel agency in Foz. Also I had an açai berry smoothie, which was positively delicious.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

1949

Maybe I'll expand this post later when I have more time, but I find this quite interesting: Most immigrants here are from Taiwan, and most came from the 1949-1950 migration to Taiwan that resulted from the Communists winning the Chinese civil war. When one guy asked about my ancestry, he seemed insistent that I qualify the fact that my parents are from the mainland with the fact that my dad also left China in the 1949 migration. Also, whenever I say my dad's family ended up in America, most people seem to chuckle and say, "that's where you went if you were educated and had money!"

Why Ciudad del Este?

I've been told in both Peru and Paraguay, "Wherever there is money you can find Chinese people." That seems to be a pretty big generalization, but it might be worth trying to explain why Chinese people have flocked to the City of the East, which in fact feels like the wild, wild West. Ciudad del Este is a border town, along the tri-border area of Argentina and Brazil.
Paraguay, as a land-locked country, has heavily depended on Argentina and Brazil for international trade. Without any port cities, Paraguay was basically forced to set up frontier trading towns along the border with Argentina and Brazil.

With such a dependence on foreign trade, it's no surprise that Paraguay should have relatively open international economy. Paraguay industries are hardly export-ready, and Paraguay must thus depend on the international market for its wealth.

Thanks to the historically trade-phobic economic policies of Brazil and Argentina, however, Paraguay capitalized on the high tariffs rates of Brazil and Argentina and began importing stuff from Asia and exporting it to its neighbors.

That's where Ciudad del Este comes in. Ciudad del Este is basically one giant duty-free shop, where Brazilian and Argentine traders come and buy up all kinds of stuff tax-free. Stuff gets exported, too, although somewhat under the table (or under the border). Although Argentine and Brazilian governments are well aware of the many illicit activities that have been undertaken in Ciudad del Este, it is nearly impossible to clamp down the border (think about how hard it has been to seal our border with Mexico).

"Ten years ago Ciudad del Este was a gold mine."

Ten years ago -- everyone seems in agreement -- was the golden age. Brazil still had many tariff peaks (i.e., high taxes on specific or groups of items), and basically anybody could come to Ciudad del Este, begin importing anything and everything from Asia, and make a handsome profit. The riches of Ciudad del Este reportedly even attracted the Chinese mafia, who got snuggly with sleeper cells of Hezbollah here (a side note: there's a substantial Lebanese population here, who people seem to have strong prejudices against).

After all, the Chinese people here are all merchants. They're here to make money. All of them own some sort of store or work in one, selling everything from clothes, food products, to electronics.

Now, however, everyone seems to agree that business is down. The mooncake seller told me that the mafia has since left and gone elsewhere -- Argentina and Brazil. I don't know the history of Brazilian economic policies, but it seems as if Brazil's recently liberalized economy has hurt business in Paraguay. Electronics are still a good business, but you can no longer simply buy from Asia and sell to Brazil. Now, Sao Paulo residents can buy most things in Sao Paulo for not much more or the same price as in Ciudad del Este. I suspect the same goes for Argentina, although trade with Brazil has been far stronger. All that seperates Brazil and Paraguay is a footbridge that can be crossed in about ten minutes by foot. This is an incredibly porous border, and I had to chase down customs on both sides in order to get my passport stamped.

Despite the famous corruption and illicit activities of Ciudad del Este, Paraguay's government simply can't afford to clamp down on the city. It relies on the chaos, on the crazy commercial center that is open from 4 am to 3 pm (Paraguay lags an hour behind Brazil and Argentina, and many people who work here in fact live in Brazil), on the laissez faire nature of this wild town.

Monday, September 15, 2008

Some Bolivia photos

Because the landscapes were incredible.




ok, the bike photo is actually outside of San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, which is only about an hour's drive from the Bolivian border. The lunar landscape is fittingly called "Valle de la luna (Moon valley)."

Sunday, September 14, 2008

New camera!

I eventually surrendered to the fact that I needed to buy a new camera, even if it is more expensive than in the States. I bought a Canon XS; I was going for the XSi , but then when I realized that Bank of America wouldn't let me take out the money to buy the more expensive XSi, I took it as a sign that I should accept the XS.

I bought it from a store called Monte Carlo, a nice looking store owned by some Lebanese guy. Keeping in line with the "Money over God" theme mentioned in a previous blog post, the salesperson took my $730 USD in cash and placed it directly on top of the Koran, the Islamic holy book. I don't know too much about Islam, but I do know that the Koran, the actual physical book, is quite sacred, and many people keep it wrapped up. Touching it isn't a simple matter; I was once told that only certain people are allowed to hold it.

In other news, it's Mid-autumn festival, a time to buy overpriced mooncakes and have banquets. One family here has been very kind to me, and helped introduce me to all sorts of people and helped me out with my project, so I bought them some mooncakes. I don't really like them that much, so don't buy me any, thanks.

Thursday, September 11, 2008

We came here for God, but also to get rich

A Spanish conquistor once uttered these famous lines (or something approximating it), when describing the Spanish Crown's motives for colonizing Latin America. Although many came here to bring Catholicism to the new world, many simply came to plunder its riches.

Ciudad del Este, Paraguay, reminds me a bit of this sentiment. Ciudad del Este rests at the confluence of Rio Iguaçu and Rio Parana (two rivers) on the border with Brazil. The entire region, which includes the famous Iguazu Falls, is a tri-border area where Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay meet. Brazil is a ten minute walk away (across a bridge over Rio Parana), and Argentina is a forty minute bus ride away.

The city is crazy. Brazilians come here for day trips and buy cheap electronics and other merchandise, then cross the border back to Brazil. Foz de Iguaçu, the Brazilian sister city, is comparatively nicer, and many wealthy merchants from Ciudad del Este in fact live in Foz and commute to Ciudad del Este for work.

So why does this city exist in the first place? Well, it used to be called "Puerto Stroessner," named after the ignominious Paraguayan dictator Alfredo Stroessner. It is a free trade zone, thus giving it its capitalism-gone-wild ambience, and with no taxes and direct imports of thousands of electronics from Asia everyday, it appears to be the cheapest electronics outlet in all of South America. Or so I am told.

Within the city, there live approximately 4,000 people of Chinese descent. 3,000 of these are Taiwanese: Paraguay is the only country in South America to recognize Taiwan diplomatically (most countries, like the US, don't have formal diplomatic relations with Taiwan because of their ties with China).
There are also about 3,000 Koreans and an unknown number of Arabs. But their influence is felt: Korean barbeque restaurants, a Korean methodist church, Shish kebab cafes, hookah cafes, a Mosque are all within the city limits. And in a city of about 200,000 inhabitants, these outsiders' presence is felt quite strongly.

People also seem to come here for religion. Within the city, there are five Chinese-language churches, a Buddhist temple, and perhaps more. A beautiful, modernistic Catholic cathedral is just three blocks from my hotel. I've only met one American: a pastor from North Carolina. He lives by the Pizza Hut.

Saturday, September 6, 2008

Five countries, five days

In what has got to be the most intense country-hopping thus far, I will be going through five countries over five days, starting yesterday. Here's the rundown:

1 Uyuni, Bolivia
2 San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
3 Salta, Argentina (Maybe Resistencia, Argentina, depending on how tired I am... do I want to break up a 26 hour bus ride?)
4 Foz de Iguazu, Brazil
5 Ciudad del Este, Paraguay

By the way, I'm in Salta, Argentina. Just got here after a 11 hour bus ride from San Pedro de Atacama. Went over the Andes. Finished "In Cold Blood." Roomed with a Spanish guy in Chile who quit his insurance job in Madrid four years ago, and has since then cycled across Asia and is now cycling across South America.

Time for some Argentinean steak and wine.

Monday, September 1, 2008

Disaster

"Your number will come up at some point," my thesis advisor told me last May. At some point, disaster strikes: Jim (my advisor) had just recounted how during a year of travelling Eurasia, a motorcyclist had ridden off with all of his stuff near the Taj Mahal in India. I think both of us considered ourselves smart travellers, but at some point, something disastrous happens, even if it is completely preventable.

Yesterday was my number came up. I lost my camera, three lenses, four memory cards, all worth about $1600 USD. I think my travel insurance can pick up $500 of it, and I will of course have to buy a new camera soon (likely in Ciudad del Este, Paraguay, known for its cheap duty-free electronics).

Here's what happened. I was scheduled to take a 6 pm bus from La Paz to Uyuni, a town in the south of Bolivia on the way to Paraguay. The bus was late, and the office workers said it would leave at 645 (no bus leaves on time in Bolivia), so I sat down in the terminal to wait. In general, bus terminals are pretty dodgy areas, and I didn't discount the La Paz bus terminal. At any rate, an English girl asked me to watch her bags while she went to the bathroom, and I did so. When she came back, I did the same, she watched my bags while I went to the rest room. When I came back the first thing I said was "where's my camera bag?" It's pointless to blame anyone, and I'm not even sure that the camera bag was there when I left for the bathroom -- it could have easily been snatched while I was guarding everything. I looked all around, asked everyone in the area, and went to the police office, knowing that it was gone. Nobody who steals a camera is going to hang around the same area.

Mostly, I just felt pathetic and stupid for letting this happen. I wasn't held up at gunpoint, I managed to make it through Lima without any such incidences (where foreigners constantly hear horror stories), and this really shouldn't have happened.

To make matters worse, I got sick for the first time since touching down in Lima on the 12 hour bus ride to Uyuni. The bus driver refused to stop for seven hours, and then at about hour 10, the bus broke down on the dirt road to Uyuni. To make matters worse, it was literally freezing -- windows icing up -- and the windows wouldn't stay shut. Eventually we got to Uyuni after about 14 hours on the bus.

I'm trying to get to Ciudad del Este, next to the Brazilian and Argentinean border (and the splendid Iguazu Falls) by next week, which will involve a series of buses through Chile and Argentina. I've taken buses in Chile and have been quite impressed, and have heard similar good things about Argentinean buses as well. Wish me luck!