Hello!
Believe it or not, I left Boston for Lima 365 days ago. That makes a year, which means my Watson Fellowship is coming to an end. I'm now in Singapore, and will be leaving here in less than 12 hours for a long voyage back home to Concord, Massachusetts.
I haven't thought too much about what this blog will become when I'm home; I imagine I'll keep posting photos, perhaps some reflections on this past year's odyssey, and the like.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Friday, June 26, 2009
Lebuh Gereja and other Portuguese influences
I am now in Malacca (Melaka) which, along with Georgetown, was recently made into a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As a crucial port along the straits of Malacca, the city is a mish-mash of influences from the Portuguese, Dutch, British, Chinese, Indians, and of course, the Malays.
It just occurred to me that the street name "Lebuh Gereja" is derived from Portuguese; (Lebuh means "street" in Malay) "Gereja" is derived from the Portuguese word for church, igreja. Some people still speak "Kristang," a language that has evolved from Portuguese spoken in along the southeast Asian maritime routes. Incidentally, tempura, yes, the quintessentially Japanese deep-fried veggies/seafood, also has Portuguese origins.
It just occurred to me that the street name "Lebuh Gereja" is derived from Portuguese; (Lebuh means "street" in Malay) "Gereja" is derived from the Portuguese word for church, igreja. Some people still speak "Kristang," a language that has evolved from Portuguese spoken in along the southeast Asian maritime routes. Incidentally, tempura, yes, the quintessentially Japanese deep-fried veggies/seafood, also has Portuguese origins.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Monday, June 22, 2009
Rio de Janeiro (snapshot)
Adding to the somewhat strange textures that "found" filters can create...
Ipanema beach, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Ipanema beach, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Social support and the Chinese
"Thanks to the social security system in America which provides a worry-free life to my mother, [it] in turn relieves my burden to support my mom's living... In China, there is no social security or welfare for the elders. It is one of the big reasons that the Chinese children have a stronger sense
of responsibility for their parents." -- Mom
I've been meaning to write about social support and the Chinese for a while. I became interested in this subject while doing research for my senior thesis, as I tried to understand the effects of China's diminishing social support systems following economic reforms in 1978. The economist Amartya Sen argues that the Chinese preference for sons is primarily a socioeconomic one. Basically, many Chinese turn towards their families to provide adequate social support, particularly in old age. Because of traditions of patrilineal marriage, daughters are "given" in marriage and live with their in-laws. Sons stay "in" the family and are expected to provide care for their parents.
It's easy to see why sons are favored when there is little state support for the elderly. Most Chinese, both in and out of Chinese, seem to be largely apolitical, and rarely use politics to try and solve social problems (in marked contrast to most Latin American countries, for instance). And because most Chinese do not receive -- nor expect -- support from the state, they often turn toward their extended families for support.
Although the research has been out for a couple years at this point, the New York Times just published an article about gender bias even among overseas Chinese in the U.S.
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/15/nyregion/15babies.html
of responsibility for their parents." -- Mom
I've been meaning to write about social support and the Chinese for a while. I became interested in this subject while doing research for my senior thesis, as I tried to understand the effects of China's diminishing social support systems following economic reforms in 1978. The economist Amartya Sen argues that the Chinese preference for sons is primarily a socioeconomic one. Basically, many Chinese turn towards their families to provide adequate social support, particularly in old age. Because of traditions of patrilineal marriage, daughters are "given" in marriage and live with their in-laws. Sons stay "in" the family and are expected to provide care for their parents.
It's easy to see why sons are favored when there is little state support for the elderly. Most Chinese, both in and out of Chinese, seem to be largely apolitical, and rarely use politics to try and solve social problems (in marked contrast to most Latin American countries, for instance). And because most Chinese do not receive -- nor expect -- support from the state, they often turn toward their extended families for support.
Although the research has been out for a couple years at this point, the New York Times just published an article about gender bias even among overseas Chinese in the U.S.
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/15/nyregion/15babies.html
Monday, June 15, 2009
I'd rather be working
You know those t-shirts that say "I"d rather be [doing favorite hobby]?" Like I'd rather be sailing, be golfing, be hiking, etc.? Last night on the street I saw a Chinese-Malaysian woman wearing a shirt saying "I'd rather be working."
I think this pretty much sums up the famous work ethic of Chinese immigrants. Throughout my journey across the Chinese diaspora, I have consistently seen Chinese immigrants pull 12, 14 hour days, six to seven days a week with little complaint. Often their only complaint is that they miss China. I think many Chinese people view hard work as an act of filial piety, of loyalty towards one's family and ancestors. Even the poorest of immigrants send what little money they have to their families in China, or to construct temples and homes to pay homage to their ancestors. Sure, Chinese parents may spoil their kids -- especially their sons -- but I think this is closely related to the expectation and the responsibility of their children to pay them back, and to take care of their parents in old age (a topic worthy of a dissertation).
It's funny, going to Chinese communities, where on Sundays or other holidays all the shops are closed except the Chinese ones. For many Jewish-Americans, for instance, going to a Chinese restaurant on Christmas has become a tradition in of itself. Shops in Georgetown seem to close early, but I was noticing that the employees of one Chinese restaurant that closed after lunch simply began to work on the street stalls at night.
I think this pretty much sums up the famous work ethic of Chinese immigrants. Throughout my journey across the Chinese diaspora, I have consistently seen Chinese immigrants pull 12, 14 hour days, six to seven days a week with little complaint. Often their only complaint is that they miss China. I think many Chinese people view hard work as an act of filial piety, of loyalty towards one's family and ancestors. Even the poorest of immigrants send what little money they have to their families in China, or to construct temples and homes to pay homage to their ancestors. Sure, Chinese parents may spoil their kids -- especially their sons -- but I think this is closely related to the expectation and the responsibility of their children to pay them back, and to take care of their parents in old age (a topic worthy of a dissertation).
It's funny, going to Chinese communities, where on Sundays or other holidays all the shops are closed except the Chinese ones. For many Jewish-Americans, for instance, going to a Chinese restaurant on Christmas has become a tradition in of itself. Shops in Georgetown seem to close early, but I was noticing that the employees of one Chinese restaurant that closed after lunch simply began to work on the street stalls at night.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Islam in Malaysia update
OK, so I just learned that Islam is, in fact, the official state religion of Malaysia. Ethnic Malays, intriguingly enough, are technically defined as Muslim in the constitution. I find it strange when ethnic groups are defined by their religion; take the Hui, who constitute an ethnic minority in China, by way of the fact that they are Muslim. Many of the Hui are in fact ethnic Han, who form the vast majority of Chinese people (I am, and pretty much every Chinese person you know is Han).
Back to Malaysia. I think Malaysia has done a pretty good job so far of balancing a multi-ethnic society, and has thus far avoided the kind of ethnic tensions in neighboring Indonesia between locals and the Chinese, or between religious groups. Nevertheless, coming from the other southeast Asian countries where cheap beer flows freely, I cannot help but notice the heavy taxes levied on alcohol (a 330ml can of beer starts at about $2.50 USD here. In comparison, this would probably cost about $0.25 USD in Vietnam or Thailand. And although Malaysia is a bit more expensive, street food, fresh juices and other drinks can still be had for less than $1 USD).
I will have to keep my eyes open as I move down the Malaysian peninsula, as Malaysia gets more Malay. Penang is apparently the only state where the Chinese form a plurality, so we'll have to see whether beer prices go up even further or drop off the shelves altogether (although I doubt that). Anyways, the high alcohol taxes seem to have worked, I haven't had a single alcoholic beverage yet. Coconuts and honeydew smoothies all the way!
Back to Malaysia. I think Malaysia has done a pretty good job so far of balancing a multi-ethnic society, and has thus far avoided the kind of ethnic tensions in neighboring Indonesia between locals and the Chinese, or between religious groups. Nevertheless, coming from the other southeast Asian countries where cheap beer flows freely, I cannot help but notice the heavy taxes levied on alcohol (a 330ml can of beer starts at about $2.50 USD here. In comparison, this would probably cost about $0.25 USD in Vietnam or Thailand. And although Malaysia is a bit more expensive, street food, fresh juices and other drinks can still be had for less than $1 USD).
I will have to keep my eyes open as I move down the Malaysian peninsula, as Malaysia gets more Malay. Penang is apparently the only state where the Chinese form a plurality, so we'll have to see whether beer prices go up even further or drop off the shelves altogether (although I doubt that). Anyways, the high alcohol taxes seem to have worked, I haven't had a single alcoholic beverage yet. Coconuts and honeydew smoothies all the way!
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Vietnam (snapshot)
Cholon, Ho Chi Minh City. A Vietnam-born Chinese entrepreneur. Despite speaking Vietnamese fluently and fitting in visibly, most Vietnam-born Chinese still maintain strong Chinese traditions and can write and speak Chinese fluently. They have their own temples, worship their ancestors, and their homes can easily be identified by the red paper calligraphy outside their homes.
A mosque in Georgetown
At the end of the day today, I somehow found myself in the main mosque in Georgetown. There seem to be several small mosques around town, although given the multi-ethnic and multi-religious nature of Malaysia, none seem to dominate the town's architectural landscape as a church does in Latin America or a mosque in the Middle East. Hindu temples, Buddhist temples, Chinese ancestral temples, Anglican churches, and mosques are scattered around the town (Okay, no synagogues, but oddly enough there is a street called "Lebuh (Street) Katz").
I got into a conversation with the security guard and what appeared to be the mosque's PR guy. To make a long conversation less long, he seemed to say that Islam was very similar to Christianity and Judaism (assuming I came from a Judeo-Christian background), albeit a more pure, less adulterated religion that has avoided the corruption that comes with institutionalization and cultural adaptation . On the other hand, when the subject of gender equality came up, he admitted that what Muslim societies often practice isn't what Islam actually says. No surprises there. I did want to ask him, but didn't get the chance, why during prayer time all the women were off in a little cordoned-off room, whereas the men got to pray in the main prayer area. Separate, and certainly not equal.
I should say, though, that I am always impressed by the intense devotion of Muslims. Muslims are supposed to pray five times a day, and visitors to Muslim societies can attest to the (sometimes deafening) frequent calls to prayer, and the subsequent emptying of streets. The centrality of prayer, I think, sets Islam apart from the way most other religions are practiced.
On the subject of institutionalized religion, I remember reading something by some guy who practiced Sufism, a kind of mysticized Islam. I think the article was actually in reference to esoteric Christianity, but I'm getting off topic. The point was the guy said that mystics have always been persecuted, because they show that people don't need institutions (the Catholic church, for instance) to connect with God or higher powers.
I got into a conversation with the security guard and what appeared to be the mosque's PR guy. To make a long conversation less long, he seemed to say that Islam was very similar to Christianity and Judaism (assuming I came from a Judeo-Christian background), albeit a more pure, less adulterated religion that has avoided the corruption that comes with institutionalization and cultural adaptation . On the other hand, when the subject of gender equality came up, he admitted that what Muslim societies often practice isn't what Islam actually says. No surprises there. I did want to ask him, but didn't get the chance, why during prayer time all the women were off in a little cordoned-off room, whereas the men got to pray in the main prayer area. Separate, and certainly not equal.
I should say, though, that I am always impressed by the intense devotion of Muslims. Muslims are supposed to pray five times a day, and visitors to Muslim societies can attest to the (sometimes deafening) frequent calls to prayer, and the subsequent emptying of streets. The centrality of prayer, I think, sets Islam apart from the way most other religions are practiced.
On the subject of institutionalized religion, I remember reading something by some guy who practiced Sufism, a kind of mysticized Islam. I think the article was actually in reference to esoteric Christianity, but I'm getting off topic. The point was the guy said that mystics have always been persecuted, because they show that people don't need institutions (the Catholic church, for instance) to connect with God or higher powers.
Georgetown (snapshot)
I think I probably should have just started posting random snapshots I like when I started it. I have to a certain degree, not all the photos (or what I write about) are project related, but I have so many that I wish I had just posted without trying to come up with a justification. This sort of has to do with my next post and the fact that I go home in less than three weeks!
Friday, June 12, 2009
Georgetown, Malaysia
Georgetown is beautiful. The old Chinatown is probably one of the coolest urban areas I've been to, alongside Cape Town's Bo Kaap neighborhood (whose residents, incidentally, came from the Malaysian archipelago) and Havana. A lot of the buildings look like they haven't changed since the 1960s or even earlier, with many buildings in various stages of decay and renovation.
Georgetown was recently inaugurated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which I think is entirely deserved. The architecture here is unique, a mix of traditional southern Chinese village housing with British colonial influences, as well as Muslim influences from the town's Indian population.
These photos don't give you an idea of what the town is like, but the old advertisements certainly help contribute to a feeling of being stuck in another era.
See me?
Georgetown was recently inaugurated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which I think is entirely deserved. The architecture here is unique, a mix of traditional southern Chinese village housing with British colonial influences, as well as Muslim influences from the town's Indian population.
These photos don't give you an idea of what the town is like, but the old advertisements certainly help contribute to a feeling of being stuck in another era.
See me?
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Malaysia
I am now in Georgetown, a city on the island of Penang, in Malaysia. Sorry about the radio silence.
In case you were wondering, Annalisa is working on an excavation outside some old abbey in northern France.
In case you were wondering, Annalisa is working on an excavation outside some old abbey in northern France.
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