I am currently in Seattle, attending the Watson Fellowship conference for returning fellows. All fifty of us have to give a 10 minute presentation on our past years. I put together this photo slide show for my presentation. It is admittedly unpolished and somewhat hard to follow with few explanations, but you may want to take a look if you've been following my blog. You'll notice a lot of repeat photos from the blog as well.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Homeward bound
Hello!
Believe it or not, I left Boston for Lima 365 days ago. That makes a year, which means my Watson Fellowship is coming to an end. I'm now in Singapore, and will be leaving here in less than 12 hours for a long voyage back home to Concord, Massachusetts.
I haven't thought too much about what this blog will become when I'm home; I imagine I'll keep posting photos, perhaps some reflections on this past year's odyssey, and the like.
Believe it or not, I left Boston for Lima 365 days ago. That makes a year, which means my Watson Fellowship is coming to an end. I'm now in Singapore, and will be leaving here in less than 12 hours for a long voyage back home to Concord, Massachusetts.
I haven't thought too much about what this blog will become when I'm home; I imagine I'll keep posting photos, perhaps some reflections on this past year's odyssey, and the like.
Friday, June 26, 2009
Lebuh Gereja and other Portuguese influences
I am now in Malacca (Melaka) which, along with Georgetown, was recently made into a UNESCO World Heritage Site. As a crucial port along the straits of Malacca, the city is a mish-mash of influences from the Portuguese, Dutch, British, Chinese, Indians, and of course, the Malays.
It just occurred to me that the street name "Lebuh Gereja" is derived from Portuguese; (Lebuh means "street" in Malay) "Gereja" is derived from the Portuguese word for church, igreja. Some people still speak "Kristang," a language that has evolved from Portuguese spoken in along the southeast Asian maritime routes. Incidentally, tempura, yes, the quintessentially Japanese deep-fried veggies/seafood, also has Portuguese origins.
It just occurred to me that the street name "Lebuh Gereja" is derived from Portuguese; (Lebuh means "street" in Malay) "Gereja" is derived from the Portuguese word for church, igreja. Some people still speak "Kristang," a language that has evolved from Portuguese spoken in along the southeast Asian maritime routes. Incidentally, tempura, yes, the quintessentially Japanese deep-fried veggies/seafood, also has Portuguese origins.
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
Monday, June 22, 2009
Rio de Janeiro (snapshot)
Adding to the somewhat strange textures that "found" filters can create...
Ipanema beach, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Ipanema beach, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.
Social support and the Chinese
"Thanks to the social security system in America which provides a worry-free life to my mother, [it] in turn relieves my burden to support my mom's living... In China, there is no social security or welfare for the elders. It is one of the big reasons that the Chinese children have a stronger sense
of responsibility for their parents." -- Mom
I've been meaning to write about social support and the Chinese for a while. I became interested in this subject while doing research for my senior thesis, as I tried to understand the effects of China's diminishing social support systems following economic reforms in 1978. The economist Amartya Sen argues that the Chinese preference for sons is primarily a socioeconomic one. Basically, many Chinese turn towards their families to provide adequate social support, particularly in old age. Because of traditions of patrilineal marriage, daughters are "given" in marriage and live with their in-laws. Sons stay "in" the family and are expected to provide care for their parents.
It's easy to see why sons are favored when there is little state support for the elderly. Most Chinese, both in and out of Chinese, seem to be largely apolitical, and rarely use politics to try and solve social problems (in marked contrast to most Latin American countries, for instance). And because most Chinese do not receive -- nor expect -- support from the state, they often turn toward their extended families for support.
Although the research has been out for a couple years at this point, the New York Times just published an article about gender bias even among overseas Chinese in the U.S.
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/15/nyregion/15babies.html
of responsibility for their parents." -- Mom
I've been meaning to write about social support and the Chinese for a while. I became interested in this subject while doing research for my senior thesis, as I tried to understand the effects of China's diminishing social support systems following economic reforms in 1978. The economist Amartya Sen argues that the Chinese preference for sons is primarily a socioeconomic one. Basically, many Chinese turn towards their families to provide adequate social support, particularly in old age. Because of traditions of patrilineal marriage, daughters are "given" in marriage and live with their in-laws. Sons stay "in" the family and are expected to provide care for their parents.
It's easy to see why sons are favored when there is little state support for the elderly. Most Chinese, both in and out of Chinese, seem to be largely apolitical, and rarely use politics to try and solve social problems (in marked contrast to most Latin American countries, for instance). And because most Chinese do not receive -- nor expect -- support from the state, they often turn toward their extended families for support.
Although the research has been out for a couple years at this point, the New York Times just published an article about gender bias even among overseas Chinese in the U.S.
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/15/nyregion/15babies.html
Monday, June 15, 2009
I'd rather be working
You know those t-shirts that say "I"d rather be [doing favorite hobby]?" Like I'd rather be sailing, be golfing, be hiking, etc.? Last night on the street I saw a Chinese-Malaysian woman wearing a shirt saying "I'd rather be working."
I think this pretty much sums up the famous work ethic of Chinese immigrants. Throughout my journey across the Chinese diaspora, I have consistently seen Chinese immigrants pull 12, 14 hour days, six to seven days a week with little complaint. Often their only complaint is that they miss China. I think many Chinese people view hard work as an act of filial piety, of loyalty towards one's family and ancestors. Even the poorest of immigrants send what little money they have to their families in China, or to construct temples and homes to pay homage to their ancestors. Sure, Chinese parents may spoil their kids -- especially their sons -- but I think this is closely related to the expectation and the responsibility of their children to pay them back, and to take care of their parents in old age (a topic worthy of a dissertation).
It's funny, going to Chinese communities, where on Sundays or other holidays all the shops are closed except the Chinese ones. For many Jewish-Americans, for instance, going to a Chinese restaurant on Christmas has become a tradition in of itself. Shops in Georgetown seem to close early, but I was noticing that the employees of one Chinese restaurant that closed after lunch simply began to work on the street stalls at night.
I think this pretty much sums up the famous work ethic of Chinese immigrants. Throughout my journey across the Chinese diaspora, I have consistently seen Chinese immigrants pull 12, 14 hour days, six to seven days a week with little complaint. Often their only complaint is that they miss China. I think many Chinese people view hard work as an act of filial piety, of loyalty towards one's family and ancestors. Even the poorest of immigrants send what little money they have to their families in China, or to construct temples and homes to pay homage to their ancestors. Sure, Chinese parents may spoil their kids -- especially their sons -- but I think this is closely related to the expectation and the responsibility of their children to pay them back, and to take care of their parents in old age (a topic worthy of a dissertation).
It's funny, going to Chinese communities, where on Sundays or other holidays all the shops are closed except the Chinese ones. For many Jewish-Americans, for instance, going to a Chinese restaurant on Christmas has become a tradition in of itself. Shops in Georgetown seem to close early, but I was noticing that the employees of one Chinese restaurant that closed after lunch simply began to work on the street stalls at night.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Islam in Malaysia update
OK, so I just learned that Islam is, in fact, the official state religion of Malaysia. Ethnic Malays, intriguingly enough, are technically defined as Muslim in the constitution. I find it strange when ethnic groups are defined by their religion; take the Hui, who constitute an ethnic minority in China, by way of the fact that they are Muslim. Many of the Hui are in fact ethnic Han, who form the vast majority of Chinese people (I am, and pretty much every Chinese person you know is Han).
Back to Malaysia. I think Malaysia has done a pretty good job so far of balancing a multi-ethnic society, and has thus far avoided the kind of ethnic tensions in neighboring Indonesia between locals and the Chinese, or between religious groups. Nevertheless, coming from the other southeast Asian countries where cheap beer flows freely, I cannot help but notice the heavy taxes levied on alcohol (a 330ml can of beer starts at about $2.50 USD here. In comparison, this would probably cost about $0.25 USD in Vietnam or Thailand. And although Malaysia is a bit more expensive, street food, fresh juices and other drinks can still be had for less than $1 USD).
I will have to keep my eyes open as I move down the Malaysian peninsula, as Malaysia gets more Malay. Penang is apparently the only state where the Chinese form a plurality, so we'll have to see whether beer prices go up even further or drop off the shelves altogether (although I doubt that). Anyways, the high alcohol taxes seem to have worked, I haven't had a single alcoholic beverage yet. Coconuts and honeydew smoothies all the way!
Back to Malaysia. I think Malaysia has done a pretty good job so far of balancing a multi-ethnic society, and has thus far avoided the kind of ethnic tensions in neighboring Indonesia between locals and the Chinese, or between religious groups. Nevertheless, coming from the other southeast Asian countries where cheap beer flows freely, I cannot help but notice the heavy taxes levied on alcohol (a 330ml can of beer starts at about $2.50 USD here. In comparison, this would probably cost about $0.25 USD in Vietnam or Thailand. And although Malaysia is a bit more expensive, street food, fresh juices and other drinks can still be had for less than $1 USD).
I will have to keep my eyes open as I move down the Malaysian peninsula, as Malaysia gets more Malay. Penang is apparently the only state where the Chinese form a plurality, so we'll have to see whether beer prices go up even further or drop off the shelves altogether (although I doubt that). Anyways, the high alcohol taxes seem to have worked, I haven't had a single alcoholic beverage yet. Coconuts and honeydew smoothies all the way!
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Vietnam (snapshot)
Cholon, Ho Chi Minh City. A Vietnam-born Chinese entrepreneur. Despite speaking Vietnamese fluently and fitting in visibly, most Vietnam-born Chinese still maintain strong Chinese traditions and can write and speak Chinese fluently. They have their own temples, worship their ancestors, and their homes can easily be identified by the red paper calligraphy outside their homes.
A mosque in Georgetown
At the end of the day today, I somehow found myself in the main mosque in Georgetown. There seem to be several small mosques around town, although given the multi-ethnic and multi-religious nature of Malaysia, none seem to dominate the town's architectural landscape as a church does in Latin America or a mosque in the Middle East. Hindu temples, Buddhist temples, Chinese ancestral temples, Anglican churches, and mosques are scattered around the town (Okay, no synagogues, but oddly enough there is a street called "Lebuh (Street) Katz").
I got into a conversation with the security guard and what appeared to be the mosque's PR guy. To make a long conversation less long, he seemed to say that Islam was very similar to Christianity and Judaism (assuming I came from a Judeo-Christian background), albeit a more pure, less adulterated religion that has avoided the corruption that comes with institutionalization and cultural adaptation . On the other hand, when the subject of gender equality came up, he admitted that what Muslim societies often practice isn't what Islam actually says. No surprises there. I did want to ask him, but didn't get the chance, why during prayer time all the women were off in a little cordoned-off room, whereas the men got to pray in the main prayer area. Separate, and certainly not equal.
I should say, though, that I am always impressed by the intense devotion of Muslims. Muslims are supposed to pray five times a day, and visitors to Muslim societies can attest to the (sometimes deafening) frequent calls to prayer, and the subsequent emptying of streets. The centrality of prayer, I think, sets Islam apart from the way most other religions are practiced.
On the subject of institutionalized religion, I remember reading something by some guy who practiced Sufism, a kind of mysticized Islam. I think the article was actually in reference to esoteric Christianity, but I'm getting off topic. The point was the guy said that mystics have always been persecuted, because they show that people don't need institutions (the Catholic church, for instance) to connect with God or higher powers.
I got into a conversation with the security guard and what appeared to be the mosque's PR guy. To make a long conversation less long, he seemed to say that Islam was very similar to Christianity and Judaism (assuming I came from a Judeo-Christian background), albeit a more pure, less adulterated religion that has avoided the corruption that comes with institutionalization and cultural adaptation . On the other hand, when the subject of gender equality came up, he admitted that what Muslim societies often practice isn't what Islam actually says. No surprises there. I did want to ask him, but didn't get the chance, why during prayer time all the women were off in a little cordoned-off room, whereas the men got to pray in the main prayer area. Separate, and certainly not equal.
I should say, though, that I am always impressed by the intense devotion of Muslims. Muslims are supposed to pray five times a day, and visitors to Muslim societies can attest to the (sometimes deafening) frequent calls to prayer, and the subsequent emptying of streets. The centrality of prayer, I think, sets Islam apart from the way most other religions are practiced.
On the subject of institutionalized religion, I remember reading something by some guy who practiced Sufism, a kind of mysticized Islam. I think the article was actually in reference to esoteric Christianity, but I'm getting off topic. The point was the guy said that mystics have always been persecuted, because they show that people don't need institutions (the Catholic church, for instance) to connect with God or higher powers.
Georgetown (snapshot)
I think I probably should have just started posting random snapshots I like when I started it. I have to a certain degree, not all the photos (or what I write about) are project related, but I have so many that I wish I had just posted without trying to come up with a justification. This sort of has to do with my next post and the fact that I go home in less than three weeks!
Friday, June 12, 2009
Georgetown, Malaysia
Georgetown is beautiful. The old Chinatown is probably one of the coolest urban areas I've been to, alongside Cape Town's Bo Kaap neighborhood (whose residents, incidentally, came from the Malaysian archipelago) and Havana. A lot of the buildings look like they haven't changed since the 1960s or even earlier, with many buildings in various stages of decay and renovation.
Georgetown was recently inaugurated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which I think is entirely deserved. The architecture here is unique, a mix of traditional southern Chinese village housing with British colonial influences, as well as Muslim influences from the town's Indian population.
These photos don't give you an idea of what the town is like, but the old advertisements certainly help contribute to a feeling of being stuck in another era.
See me?
Georgetown was recently inaugurated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which I think is entirely deserved. The architecture here is unique, a mix of traditional southern Chinese village housing with British colonial influences, as well as Muslim influences from the town's Indian population.
These photos don't give you an idea of what the town is like, but the old advertisements certainly help contribute to a feeling of being stuck in another era.
See me?
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Malaysia
I am now in Georgetown, a city on the island of Penang, in Malaysia. Sorry about the radio silence.
In case you were wondering, Annalisa is working on an excavation outside some old abbey in northern France.
In case you were wondering, Annalisa is working on an excavation outside some old abbey in northern France.
Monday, May 25, 2009
Things they left behind
I just posted on a friend's blog with photos from China, of a near-empty village where many people have moved to Brazil and the United States. I've posted there mainly because the readership of Mauricio's blog is largely Brazilian (Mauricio is from Sao Paulo), and I haven't figured out how to cross-post it onto my blog.
The link is here:
Aqui e Acola: Things they left behind
The link is here:
Aqui e Acola: Things they left behind
Sunday, May 24, 2009
The snake
Today I witnessed the slaughter of a snake and its subsequent consumption in Saigon. I have only seen a slaughter a few times in my life -- I witnessed the slaughter of huge pig in Cuba on Christmas eve, some fish, chickens with their heads plucked off, and that's about it. In a way, if you are going to eat an animal, I think you should be able to see where it comes from, how it ends up on your plate.
I had deep fried snake once before, in China. This snake was served in a stew. Snake meat is kind of like a cross between tough fish and chicken.
Those with snake phobia (Annalisa), you might want to skip this post.
The snake out of the bag.
Gutting the snake.
Squeezing the blood out to mix with rice wine.
Amazingly, the snake -- gutted, head cut off -- still wrestles with itself.
Removing the innards of the snake
This guy ate the raw gall bladder of the snake.
Snake soup. THese are snake eggs that the slaughtered female snake carried inside itself. They kind of just taste like egg yoke.
Rice wine mixed with snake blood and bile. Down it as fast as possible.
I had deep fried snake once before, in China. This snake was served in a stew. Snake meat is kind of like a cross between tough fish and chicken.
Those with snake phobia (Annalisa), you might want to skip this post.
The snake out of the bag.
Gutting the snake.
Squeezing the blood out to mix with rice wine.
Amazingly, the snake -- gutted, head cut off -- still wrestles with itself.
Removing the innards of the snake
This guy ate the raw gall bladder of the snake.
Snake soup. THese are snake eggs that the slaughtered female snake carried inside itself. They kind of just taste like egg yoke.
Rice wine mixed with snake blood and bile. Down it as fast as possible.
Cholon, Ho Chi Minh City
Cholon is the historical "Chinatown district" in Saigon, now officially known as Ho Chi Minh City.
In case you hadn't realized already, most Chinese immigrants are good entrepreneurs. Hence, when the Communists came smashing through and closed all the free markets, many Chinese people fled Vietnam. With markets opening up once again, the Chinese people are once more beginning to show off their entrepreneurial talent.
Funny thing. After arriving in Vietnam from China, I've been making many comparisons between the two. I've been surprised how tolerant most Vietnamese people are with having their photo taken, at least in comparison to their Chinese counterparts. Most don't seem to mind, and there are rarely angry security guards that make up arbitrary rules prohibiting photography in public places.
Nevertheless, when I got to Cholon, I noticed immediately how much more camera-shy the Chinese there were. Originally, I would have liked to take a portrait of this trio, apparently grandparents and their grandchild. But the man and woman casually covered their faces while allowing me to photograph their child, with little protest. The result seems somewhat funny to me.
Since I'm travelling alone I don't get many photos taken of me. My college photography professor required us to take at least three self-portraits on each roll of film (remember those?), and I've gotten in the habit of taking them. Here I am wearing my new blazer and shirt I got tailor-made in Vietnam, because apparently that's what you do when you go to Vietnam. It's quite incredible, really, little shops can spit out an entire suit in less than 12 hours of you walking into the store.
In case you hadn't realized already, most Chinese immigrants are good entrepreneurs. Hence, when the Communists came smashing through and closed all the free markets, many Chinese people fled Vietnam. With markets opening up once again, the Chinese people are once more beginning to show off their entrepreneurial talent.
Funny thing. After arriving in Vietnam from China, I've been making many comparisons between the two. I've been surprised how tolerant most Vietnamese people are with having their photo taken, at least in comparison to their Chinese counterparts. Most don't seem to mind, and there are rarely angry security guards that make up arbitrary rules prohibiting photography in public places.
Nevertheless, when I got to Cholon, I noticed immediately how much more camera-shy the Chinese there were. Originally, I would have liked to take a portrait of this trio, apparently grandparents and their grandchild. But the man and woman casually covered their faces while allowing me to photograph their child, with little protest. The result seems somewhat funny to me.
Since I'm travelling alone I don't get many photos taken of me. My college photography professor required us to take at least three self-portraits on each roll of film (remember those?), and I've gotten in the habit of taking them. Here I am wearing my new blazer and shirt I got tailor-made in Vietnam, because apparently that's what you do when you go to Vietnam. It's quite incredible, really, little shops can spit out an entire suit in less than 12 hours of you walking into the store.
Saturday, May 23, 2009
Vietnam
I am in Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon. I have been in Vietnam for more than a week now, having traveled southwards from the Chinese border.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
A map of the Chinese diaspora
My friend Julian sent me this link, a world map of the Chinese diaspora. I met Julian nearly a year ago in Lima, Peru -- incidentally, Julian is also a Chinese-American.
http://www.wallpaper.com/madeinchina/diaspora
The map shows the major Chinese settlements of around the world. What seems to be missing is a more updated version showing Chinese immigration in Africa. Nigeria has upwards of 100,000 Chinese people, and Ethiopia has between 40,000-50,000.
http://www.wallpaper.com/madeinchina/diaspora
The map shows the major Chinese settlements of around the world. What seems to be missing is a more updated version showing Chinese immigration in Africa. Nigeria has upwards of 100,000 Chinese people, and Ethiopia has between 40,000-50,000.
Monday, May 11, 2009
Mannequins
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Birmingham, EnglandI've actually taken quite a few photos of mannequins on this trip, starting with my very first stop in Peru. Some street near the Barrio Chino in Lima specialized in suits and had a bunch of scary looking mannequins. Mannequins are strange; large, idealized figures meant to represent humans in an odd, overgrown barbie-like fashion.
Saturday, May 9, 2009
Two from Ethiopia
Arat Kilo (near Addis Ababa University), Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
B&W photos from Taishan
Black and White photos from Taishan county.
Women sort through a pile of mud in order to find baby crabs, which they then sell to a man at 100 crabs/20 RMB (a little less than $3 USD). The guy then either sells the crabs or raises them until they are big and he sells them for a crabload. We got our full-size crabs for 45 RMB, about $7 USD.
For two nights, I stayed in Sha-Lan village, which has recently seen a large emigration to Brazil. Indeed, two of the families I met in Brazil hailed from this village, and I was able to contact their families to see their homes they left behind.
The family I stayed with had a son who was 19, and was quite severely mentally retarded. He acted like a 3 or 4 year old, crying when he didn't get something, pouting to his mom, and woke up everyone at 5 am for no reason. He seemed to love photography; I allowed him to take my photo and he loved it when I took his. At one point, he ran to his older sister's room and grabbed her Hello Kitty. I like the picture for some reason.
Sha-Lan village.
Sha-Lan village
Women sort through a pile of mud in order to find baby crabs, which they then sell to a man at 100 crabs/20 RMB (a little less than $3 USD). The guy then either sells the crabs or raises them until they are big and he sells them for a crabload. We got our full-size crabs for 45 RMB, about $7 USD.For two nights, I stayed in Sha-Lan village, which has recently seen a large emigration to Brazil. Indeed, two of the families I met in Brazil hailed from this village, and I was able to contact their families to see their homes they left behind.
The family I stayed with had a son who was 19, and was quite severely mentally retarded. He acted like a 3 or 4 year old, crying when he didn't get something, pouting to his mom, and woke up everyone at 5 am for no reason. He seemed to love photography; I allowed him to take my photo and he loved it when I took his. At one point, he ran to his older sister's room and grabbed her Hello Kitty. I like the picture for some reason.
Sha-Lan village.
Sha-Lan village
Taishan, the roots of the diaspora
The above photo is of my maternal grandfather's village in Haiyan, literally "Sea Banquet." We had seafood everyday. One meal I counted a total of eight different kinds of fish.Side note: Blogger has a somewhat annoying format in that it seems to post photos backwards in the order in which I upload them.
Anyways, I've spent the past few days in the countryside, in the Guangdong county of Taishan, a major exporter of fine Chinese products. I mean immigrants. In many of the countries I've been to so far, a large number of the immigrants have come from this single county, Taishan. I think I read somewhere that over half of the population that is "Taishanese" is actually living abroad.
Apparently I am 75% Taishanese, which I had no idea about until recently, when I found out that my paternal grandmother's family was originally from a village in Taishan. Going back to my "old home" in China is an incredible experience; an auntie who helped guide me around the villages pointed out villages in the distance, commenting, "that village went to England. That village went to Brazil."
Brazil.
Everyone was talking about Brazil. Brazil is the new America, by the way. Seriously, everybody was talking about Brazil, and everybody is going to Brazil. I guess people have started realizing that America isn't America anymore.
Old ladies in my maternal grandfather's village in Haiyan. They have just been given 100 RMB (about $14 USD) by a successful entrepreneur who made it out of the village.
The ancestral temple in Haiyan. The first character on the temple reads my mother's last name, "Rong," or "Yung" in Cantonese.
The house that my maternal grandfather built. He was a "Lao Hua Qiao" (overseas Chinese) who went to America, and apparently South America as well. He died when my mom was five and she has no recollection of him. Apparently he suffered prejudice in America. Surprise.
The ancestral shrine in the house my grandfather built.Now we can move on to my paternal grandmother's village, or at least what I believe is my paternal grandmother's village. She was born in California, but her parents were from Taishan. She even has the same last name as my maternal grandmother, Wu, or "Ng" in Cantonese. Yes, nnnnnngggggggggg. It's not missing at consonants. Try it.
Actually, the village wasn't that remote.
That's me in front of my paternal grandmother's village.The final village is my maternal grandmother's. I had an "American returning to his roots" moment in which I jumped on the back of a motorcycle to get to this village, because it was inaccessible by car. It was deeply romantic, and I wish I had a film crew on hand.
The driver checks to see if it's the right village. I take photos. This is the ancestral temple.
The Communist ancestral temple. No, just kidding, but I think it used to be the party headquarters, see the faded star?
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